I got this crazy idea; why not let the bicycle-wheel deliver the power for a masturbation device..?
And so I developed the "Bicycle masturbator".
The first 2 steps, in the development was very educating, you can see them (test 1 og test 2) if you click here.
Next I went really into the assignment, and this meant that among other adjustments, the blue 'drive-wheel' ended up on the back wheel, with a sturdy support 'down the other side' to prevent the blue wheel from 'side tracking'.
Click the image to see it full size, and look at the next two pictures, to see 'the mechanics' in work, meaning what happens when the blue wheel is turning.
The (sado)mechanix works like this; when the blue wheel is turning, it will
pull the wire attached to the off-centered pin, which will move the cockring down
my cock, when the blue wheel then is releasing the wire, the spring, which you
see at the left will pull the ring back up my cock.
The result is, that the ring will move up my cock one time, and subsequently one
time down my cock, for each revolution of the blue wheel. That is absolutely not
boring, which you can see if you click
here.
Now all I'm missing is a woman, who'll be guinea pig for the development of a 'Ladies edition' ;o)
Version 2:
As I found out, that I could get my hands on a length of Ø6mm stainless
steel - and at an absolutely acceptable price - the idea of making a mechanism
for the cycle, which did not have the problems, which come with the aluminum
sticks, that I could get - almost a chapter waiting to be written.
I have had the unpleasant experience, that aluminum tends to break, especially
if it has been bent, and - following that - needs to transfer energy.
Making the major part of the mechanism, from a stainless steel rod, I got rid of this annoyance; and as I found out that my local metal recyckling business also would let me purchase from their scrap metal, version 2 was born:
The first point of interest, to which I'll connect a few comments, is my new 'camera-mount'.
The camera mount is composed from two different parts, and I guess that you
will recognize the one of them, being the 'top' of my camera tripod.
The other part, is actually a saddle post , or rather most of one - I used the
top of it, for my 'slave post'. The remaining part of the saddle post had the
right size, internally, to hold the top of my tripod, and the material was thick
enough, to let me mount two 'finger screws' through it, in order to be able to
screw the tripod top securely into place. A further plus is, that the saddle
post is hexagonal on the 'inside', which makes it even easier to get a good
mount.
In my opinion, this gives a rather fine view of 'what's happening'.
The technicalities:
To start 'at the other end' I have mounted an extra cog. The point in this way to do it is, that as soon as the rear wheel is turning, the mechanism will be masturbating me (and that IS the point), apart from some of the 'ladies-dildo-bikes' I've seen around the web, where the power is drawn from the pedaling, in such a manner, that if she stops pedaling (i.e. driving down a hill), the dildo (and thus the simulation) will stop working.
As you can see at the photo, I've simply screwed the cog through the spokes
of the wheel, so close to the flange, holding the spokes, that it it locked to
the hub of the wheel. The inner crossings of the spokes are so 'tight', that the
nuts cannot 'slip through'.
I actually MADE a fine 'mounting-disc', which could fit on the inside of the
rim, but I found that the simple way worked just as fine, or - in fact - even
better.
The cog itself, is a spare part purchased at my local bicycle shop.
At the other end of the chain, I mounted a gear rim, cannibalized (as well as
the chain) from an old cycle I had in my basement, exactly for that purpose.
Along with the gear rim I mounted a derailleur, from the same old bicycle.
I might have been able to get away with just mounting a single cog there as well, but for 3 reasons I chose this way to do it:
(Here I might just make the remark, that the ball bearings are attached to the coasting mechanism of the gear rim, which means, that the gear rim will turn arond with no problems, but only one way around. This - in returns - give the effect, that I cannot let the rear wheel 'turn backwards' (i.e. rolling backwards), when the stimulator is engaged).
You'll find a short video here, showing the gearshift in action 
The disc, I have mounted on the gear rim (the one with the holes in it), I found at my local scrap metal company, cut in the right size, which only left me with the task of drilling the right holes in the right places. Mounting the connecting rod in different holes, will give me a (very) short 'rubbing-length' in hole number 1, and a (very) long 'rubbing-length' if I mount it into hole number 9.
As you might be able to see, from the photos above, hole number 1 is almost at the center of the disc, and hole number 9 is at the rim of the disc, with the immediate numbers at varying distances from the center (marked in green).
If you take a look at the test-drive-video, you'll see, that half way through Test 2, I change the connecting rod, from hole 4 to hole 6 - or rather, you'll see the effects of it...
The connection between the connecting rod, and the stimulation rod, is made
like a ring, at the end of the connecting rod, gripping around the stimulation
rod, between two nuts, which supply the needed 'slack', in order to let the
mechanism run smoothly.
The stimulation rod is split in 2, just the same, as this makes it easy to
dismantle the top of it, i.e. for driving through town, to the desired
'stimulation area'.
The top nut, is 'locked' from the fact, that the threading stops there, and the nut below the ring, is locking onto the long 'threaded muff', which connect the two halves of the stimulation rod.
-and this is how it all looks, when I'm sitting in the saddle, having lots of fun...
Now, when I have the derailleur mounted, just the same, I made sure, that I could also change gears on the stimulation - at least within certain limitations.
Above you can see the chain running on cog 4 (left) and cog 7 (right). The obvious point is, that the smaller the cog, the fewer 'teeth', and thus, the faster stimulation, as the cog 'feeding' the mechanism stays the same, regardless of what gear I choose.
This is all controlled by a gear lever, mounted on the handlebar, next to the one controlling the gearing of the rear wheel.
And finally, I've (of course) made a video, showing you how it looks 'in
action'
(Test 1 & 2).
Version 2.1:
Well, finally the weather got o warm, that it was an option to make the final video of the masturbator bicycle, and for this purpose I made yet another masturbation-device.
In the picture to the left, you see the new masturbator, and in the picture to the right, you see it mounted, as it is when it is 'in operation'.
The ring at the top of it, is actually a 'pipe-mount', which comes with a rubber padding inside, which makes it even more fun to use...
As beforehand mentioned, I have made the final video, which you'll find here: