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Selfbondage with threat of revelation…

You’ll need to do a little ‘building’ for this one to work, but I guess it’ll be worth the while.

Items in the picture:

1. Ice lock (if used)
2. Master key (if you haven’t gor 5 locks for the same key, all the 5 keys).
3. Wrist cuffs locked on chain.
4. Waist belt with chain attached on your back.
5. Chain from waist belt, to ankle cuffs.
6. Ankle cuffs, (maybe) locked on to either end of spreader bar. With chain to waist belt attached.
7. “Trigger string” attached to your nipples, and the ring on the headless nail.
8. Nipple weight, which will wiggle as soon as you move.

10. Rollerblind with ‘tampered stop’.

12. Headless nail, allowing the rings attached to it to “slide off” with (almost) no obstruction.
13. String, holding the “trigger arm” (N) for the switch, up.
14. Aluminum arm, turning on the switch (O), starting dildo and the light, when the nipple-string pull the rings off the headless nail.
15. Electric switch, controlling the light and the dildo action.
16. (P₁ and P₂) Electric cord from switch to lamp.
17. Dildo mounted on chair (and kept inside of you, as you’re unable to stand up).
18. Powercord for dildo (most likely with a power-adapter somewhere along the line).
19. Window facing a busy city street, or.. or…

Detailed switch: (Click)

Items needed:

• A chair, which will not easily ‘tilt’. a)
• A dildo, which is powered through a wall power outlet. a)
• A set of (comfortable) wrist cuffs.
• A set of (comfortable) ankle cuffs.
• A waist belt, to which you can attach a chain.
• 2 lengths of chain.
• 4 metal rings.
• 5 padlocks with key (if you DO use ice release) OR 5 with number-lock (if you do NOT use ice release).
• A rollerblind, which has been modified. b)
• A nail with no ‘head/top’. c)
• An ‘automatic swich’. d)
• A 2-in-1 adapter, for the wall power outlet, i.e. an extension cord.
• A window facing i.e. a busy street.
• An ice-release. e)
• A nipple-weight (or more).
• An (optional) spreader-bar (i.e. a piece of pipe, with a hole at either end). f)
• A piece of string, long enough to reach from your nipples to the nail, and then some.  
• A timer, to turn off the light, when you're bound in place.

Modified items:

1. Best done with a good sturdy, wooden kitchen chair.
   *Insert the desired dildo in your vagina,
   *grab a pencil
   *sit down on the chair, with your back leaning comfortably on the back-rest,
   *and mark the position of the bottom of the dildo (carefully).
   Drill an adequately sized hole for the bottom of the dildo through the seat, where you marked the bottom of the dildo.
   Sand the hole (and the edges) carefully.
   Mount (glue) the dildo into the seat, with the powercord on the bottom side of the seat. (lying along the floor).
2. (Thanks to BoundAnna) Dismantle the mechanism which allow the rollerblind to ‘stay down’; or use an old rollerblind, where the mechanism HAS failed already.
   Attach a ring to the bottom of the rollerblind, i.e. by a piece of string.
   Mount the rollerblind over the window, as usually.
   Pull the rollerblind down, in front of the window, let go of the ring, and see the rollerblind roll back up.
3. Get a nice sturdy nail, and saw away the ‘head’.
   Put the nail into the wall, below the window, in such a manner, that the ring from the rollerblind can be placed around the headless nail, and stay down. (It is essential that this nail is absolutely horizontal!).
4. This is an item which you might need to let your certified electrician build for you, at least the electrical parts..!
   *Make a stable “L” i.e. of a wooden DIY shelf plate.
   *In case you’d like to let your electrician mount the switch, do this now (recommended) - otherwise you mount the switch in such a manner, that you have a wall plug at one cord, and a 'female connector' at the end of another cord - with the switch in-between, so that it will allow current to flow from the wall outlet, to the 'female connector in it's ON position, but will break the circuit, in it's OFF position.
   *Mount two eyelets at the top of the plate.
   *Take a piece of aluminium stick, and make a 90-degree bend 12” from one end.
   *insert the other end through the eyelets, so that the bend is close to the right hand eyelet.
   *Bend the aluminium stick, at the left hand side of the left eyelet, until the aluminium stick points down in front of the switch.
   *Now bend the aluminium stick, so that if it turn inside the eyelets, the end of the stick will turn the switch ON.
   *Bind a piece of string to the ‘upper part’ of the aluminium stick, and bind a ring onto the string, in such a manner, that the ring (when pulled in over the headless nail), will hold the stick ‘up’; the logick being that when the ring is pulled off the nail, the switch will be turned ON.
   *In case of necessity (probably), attach a weight of some kind to the upper end of the aluminium stick – in order to give it the ‘power’ necessary to flip the switch.  
5. An Ice-release can be made from a piece of string long enough to reach from the cieling hook, to your hands (and then some), a container which are OK for freezing water inside it, and a keyring with some weight attached.
   Start out by putting the string (apart from 6" at either end) into i.e. an empty coke plastic bottle.
   Secure the ends to the top of the bottle, with 6" out of the bottleneck for either end of the string, by i.e. a rubber band.
   Pour water into the plastic bottle, to your desired delay is secured - the more water, the more ice, the longer the wait. (Do NOT fill the bottle more than 50%).
   Make sure that as much string as possible is in the water inside the bottle.
   Put the bottle into your freezer, and let the water freeze to ice (and make sure that it cannot tilt, prior to having frozen the water).
   When you want to use the delay of the ice lock, you take the bottle out of the freezer, remove the rubber band around the bottleneck, and tie one end of the string to your ceiling hook, and tie your keys to the other end of the string, which is frozen into the ice, inside the bottle.
   If you want to, you can tie a piece of string around the bottleneck, and secure the bottle to the ceiling hook, in order to prevent it from dripping all over.
   When the ice has molten, the weight of the key ring will pull the string out of the bottle, letting the keys drop to where you can get at them.
6. Get a piece of metal pipe, 1” thick, and drill a hole through either end of the pipe, large enough to allow you to lock a padlock to either end of the pipe.
   The length of the pipe (spreaderbar) is decided by how far apart you’d like your ankles to be.
   (Optional) Drill a hole at the middle of the pipe, and mount a eye-bolt through the hole, in order to attach the chain.
   To use the spreaderbar, simply padlock your ankle cuffs to either end.

Doing the self bondage:

1. Set a timer to turn out the light i.e. in 10 minutes, leaving you in deep darkness.
2. Attach the chain, which will be connected to your wrists to the ceiling.
3. Place the switch-L [O] under the headless nail [L]
4. Place the 3 rings on the headless nail [L] in the following sequence (from the wall out): the ring for the nipple string / the ring for the switch / and finally, the ring holding the rollerblind down.
5. Place the chair, in the right spot on the floor – in front of the window.
6. Set the switch to OFF.
7. Plug the ‘supply cord’ into a wall power outlet (and make sure, that THIS one is ON.
8. Plug the dildo and the lamp into the switch, and set them to ON.
9. Tie the nipple weights to the nipple-string, someplace halfway between the chair and the headless nail.
10. Put your ankle cuffs, your wrist cuffs and your waist belt.
11. (if you use ice release) Attach one end of the ice release to the ceiling, and pull the chain (from point 1)) through the ring. [A].
12. Attach the chain to the backside of your waist belt.
13. Sit down on the chair, with the dildo appropriately placed.
14. Pull the chain, attached to your belt, down BEHIND the seat of the chair, and pull it out in front of the chair.
15. Lock your ankles to either end of the spreader bar.
16. Push your ankles, and the spreader bar, as far BACK as you can.
17. Lock the chain, attached to your belt, to the spreader bar. (TIGHT)
18. Bind the nipple-string to your nipples – or use i.e. cloverleaf-clamps. (CAREFULLY ).
19. Lock your wrist cuffs to the end of the chain, hanging from the ceiling.
20. Wait for the light to switch off, and sit STILL.  The slightest movement will make the nipple-weight move, slowly (or rapidly) pulling the rings off the headless nail – which will let the rollerblind roll UP, turn on the lamp, and, start the dildo.

And here the most important difference between the ice-lock, and the number-lock come into play.

Ice lock: If your wrists are locked with a padlock with key, which is secured by the ice (until it’s molten), you’ll stay trapped on the chair, revealed, with the buzzing dildo inside of you, until the ice let the key loose, enabling you to free your self.

Please notice, that this is the ‘unsafe option’, as you’ll not be able to get free, if something prevent you from unlocking the padlock holding your wrist cuffs (Remember Murphy’s law).

Number lock: In case you use a number lock, you will be able to free yourself, only with the necessary delay, coming from the fact, that it’ll take you a few moments to unlock yourself.

This is the ‘safe option’ as you’ll be able to free yourself, when the daylight come in the window – especially if you choose a rollerblind, in a light colour, even if your chosen release mechanism fails.

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